Most Beautiful Ring of the Year 2022 Finalist!
Pia-Mari Jull's stunning sundial ring, Move On
Life is like a wind holding a seagull that has spread its wings in the sky or blowing forward a sailing ship travelling on the high seas. We move forward from the sun’s rising to its descent and aim for the horizon. Sometimes the wind turns on us, batters and knocks – throws us on unfamiliar beaches. At this new beginning, we are often alone, weak, and wingless. But there's always a new day, life writes a new chapter. Time to transport and heal, the sun restores directional instinct and strength.
Pia-Mari Jull's Most Beautiful Ring of the Year 2022 competition work is the sundial ring, Move On.
The first sundial rings were made in the 16th century, but today they have disappeared from jewellery ranges altogether. The ring shows Helsinki time, and it is made perfectly to the correct dimensions, only in miniature. The material is white gold. Symbolically, the sundial ring Move On is an instrument that illuminates the path to the future and brightens its own inner direction, as well as being an ornament. A power ring that combines the forces of time and intuition for moving on to new beginnings.
Materials: 585‰ white gold and sapphire glass. Price: 3200€.
I have been working as a precious metals teacher at the Finnish School of Watchmaking for 22 years. When this year's competition theme was announced, I thought long and hard about what 'a new beginning' meant to me. Due to the similarity of the Finnish words for 'time' and 'beginning', I initially misread the title, i.e. 'a new time' rather than 'a new beginning'. I got stuck on the word time and thought that now is the time to do something related to timepieces. With both historical and aesthetic appeal, the idea of a sundial was born. The first sundial rings were being produced in the 16th century. My ring became an actual and metaphorical pointer for a new day, a new beginning.
On sundials, the hand (gnomon) casts a shadow on the base (dial face), from which the time can be read. The gnomon is aligned parallel to the earth's axis i.e., facing true north, and its tilt angle according to the latitude of its location e.g., 60° in Helsinki.
The Move On ring is made to show Helsinki time. The face and gnomon are protected by a convex sapphire glass. The branch lines below the ring go in every wind direction.
Sometimes the work cannot be done alone, but it requires good groundwork, good planning and especially a good team. While doing competition work, I faced many new problems and learned a lot of new things. When there is a group of experts from many fields, a wonderful end result is created.
When I got hold of the idea of my work, the initial preparation began by getting to know the history of the sundial and the calculation of time. Thanks go to watchmaker Markku Huhtala for this. For the first time, I used 3D modelling to shape the perimeter and it wouldn't have been successful without micromechanic Pasi Vallittu. In order for the glass to fit perfectly in the set, it requires precise turning, for which thanks also go to Pasi. The clear lines and beautiful engravings on the board are the handiwork of Esa Siipilehto.
Although I myself had a plan, an idea and a clear vision, Nina Alivirta put it all into beautiful words. Thanks to all of you.
Click/tap to enlarge